SKIN: FACTS

If you decide to become a beauty therapist, ask for an honest blow by blow account of what is involved before signing up and ensure you understand the level of knowledge that is required to work in the industry.  Each system of the body (anatomy and physiology) is studied, so that the therapist can recognise the effects each treatment can have on a client and be able to offer solutions if a reaction occurs.

Understanding the skin system is obviously one that is key as a therapist so I thought I would share some facts with you……if you’re a therapist then this will be easy reading for you, if not my apologies for making you respect your skin and the person performing your skin treatments!

FACTS

  1. Your skin is the largest living organ of the body, it provides a waterproof covering and is constantly renewing itself.
  2. download-17It consists of 3 layers; epidermis (outer layer), dermis (second layer, true skin) and subcutaneous layer (fat layer)
  3. Your skin produces oil (sebum) to keep your skin soft and supple; when this is combined with sweat a protective acidic layer (acid mantle) is created which stops bacteria from multiplying.  So if you’re using a skin care product which strips off the natural oil (e.g. an alkaline such as soap) this is when spots can develop but the skin may also be dry and flaky.
  4. Your skin absorbs the suns UV rays and stimulates melanin to be produced (tanning), helping protect from damage.
  5. Your true skin (dermis) contains sensory nerve endings which act as an early warning to protect/alert you to a change and help keep you from harm; it senses heat, cold, pain, pressure and touch.
  6. Your skin helps to regulate your body temperature, by the capillaries either dilating or constricting the blood flow.
  7. When you’re cold, a tiny muscle attached to the hair follicle contracts, making the hair stand on end, trapping warm air – you’ll see goosebumps.  This in turn triggers the muscular system to make you shiver, since when a muscle moves it produces heat. (clever isn’t it?)
  8. Your fat layer (subcutaneous) helps to insulate and keep you warm but also helps damage from knocks and bangs.
  9. Your skin is also one of the body’s excretory organs and gets rid of some toxins by sweating them out.
  10. Your skin is an indicator of general health and when skin conditions/disorders occur they are usually a sign that something in the body isn’t functioning to its’ optimum levels – don’t ignore it.  The image below shows which parts of the face relate to the body organs, so if you notice any change in your skin check what part of your body it relates to and take action.

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Conclusions

You only get one skin; when you consider what it is up against every day in terms of pollution, incorrect product use, diet and stress you owe to yourself to look after it.  Take a look in the mirror and assess it – what is it that gives you cause for concern? Come and work with a skin specialist and invest time and effort into making your skin condition the best it’s ever been.  Don’t try to buy off the shelf; everyones skin is different and one size doesn’t fit all! Love your skin and keep it as youthful as you can for as long as you can.

 

ACNE: NOT JUST FOR TEENAGERS

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Which of the 2 images do you think shows acne?

You’d be forgiven for thinking the 2nd picture shows true acne, but the first one also classes as having acne.  The word ‘acne’ makes people think that their skin is beyond help and is something they “just have to put up with”, along with the loss of confidence and self esteem, unless they visit their GP for some kind of medication to rid them of the condition.  Don’t get me wrong, in some cases medication is needed to level out any hormonal triggers or to get bacterial levels under control.  The medication can be topical or oral depending on the severity.

http://www.nhs.uk/Conditions/Acne/Pages/Treatment.aspx

Acne is often responsible for lowering levels of self esteem and lack of confidence in adults and teens, so it’s really important to take the skin issue seriously and try to find out it’s triggers and possible causes for each individual. In a lot of cases a good skin care regime might be the best medicine and all that is needed.  Since there are 4 grades of acne ranging in severity from 1-4 the following will help you understand that having acne differs drastically from case to case.

Grade 1 – Has open and closed pores, with some blackheads (comedones)

Grade 2 – Has open/closed pores, some comedones, some red spots (papules), and some spots with yellow heads (pustules)

Grade 3 – Has all of the grade 2 appearance but with inflammation, lesions from scarring (rough, coarse texture), and bacteria

Grade 4 – Has all of grade 3 appearance plus nodular lesions. Skin nodules are slightly elevated lesions on or in the skin. They are larger than papules – over 5 mm in diameter. The depth of the lesion is more significant than the width, some can be deep in the subcutaneous layer of the skin

Grade 1 or 2 acne can be helped by using correct skin care products and understanding what might trigger a flare up.  Grade 3 & 4 will need some medical help plus a good skin care routine.

TRIGGERS AND CAUSES

CAUSE A = ADULT T=TEENAGE (if I could have worked out how to insert a table here it would read better, but hey I’m just a beauty therapist!!)

A; Generally due to monthly hormone fluctuations and chronic stress

T; Generally due to hormonal changes at puberty

TYPE

A; More likely to be more persistent and inflammatory with papules/pustules with fewer comedones than teenage acne

T; Comedones will be present, the skin will display an oily shine due to the excess sebum being produced, there might be papules and pustules

WHO

A; More common in women 25+, up to%

T; Common equally in girls and boys  in 85-95% of teens

GENERAL SKIN CONDITION

A; The adults skin will often be sensitised with other conditions going on as well: e.g. dehydration

T; Teenage skin is generally more resilient than adults due to higher oil content and has fewer additional conditions to treat

AREAS AFFECTED

A; Primarily around the mouth, chin and jawline

T; Primarily around the T-zone (forehead, nose and chin)

How to help control your breakouts

Everyone suffers from the odd spot and everyone is self concious about it; you can feel people homing in on the area and talking to the spot instead of you (that’s how it feels anyway!).  So try to follow this list of do’s and don’ts to minimise your trauma!!!

Do: Follow a good cleanse routine, and always use a moisturiser.  You are protecting your skin from dehydrating and keeping it supple, not adding extra grease to cause more spots!

Do: Drink some water (6-8 glasses as we all know is ideal but how many of us actually manage that) and eat healthily 80% of the time.

Do: visit a skin care specialist for advice and a facial if possible.  Trained therapists will help you understand your skin and how to carefully look after it.

Do: Check products for ingredients, there are some common culprits in cheaper products which can cause skin problems e.g. artificial fragrances, lanolin, alcohol and mineral oils.

Don’t: Squeeze or pick your break-outs as they will spread.

Don’t: Use bog standard off the shelf soap.  They are too alkaline for the skins naturally acidic environment and will strip it of its natural oils making it go into over drive to replace the missing oil, so areas seem to produce more oil but are also becoming dry and flaky, (confused skin!)

Don’t: Sleep in your make-up overnight.  Your skin cells renew quickly overnight and those that have died and are ready to be sloughed off won’t be able to go anywhere as they’re stuck to your make-up residue, so your skin looks dull with an uneven texture and the follicles will  become blocked easily.

Don’t: Use dirty make-up brushes either or share them with friends, wash them weekly with a mild skin wash and leave to air dry.

Don’t: Live off junk food, vary your diet so that toxins can be carried away through your body effectively.

Conclusions

There will always be an exception to the rule – the odd soap and water user with the perfect skin!  Don’t forget genetics play a big part, if your mum had great skin then you will probably be enjoying clearer skin than others; but also consider that peoples lifestyles and environments have changed massively over the years which impacts on skin health.  When I was a teenager we had one Wimpy bar in Sheffield and if you could get a table you felt like you were a super star (or maybe that was just me) – anyway the point being, going out for a burger was a treat back in the day so your body could cope with the not so nice aspect of processed food.  Todays diet is much higher in additives, chemical processes and preservatives, add this to more stress, less fresh air and movement and the result is more health and skin problems in all of us.

As a skin therapist it’s my job to find out about the individuals lifestyle, their personal concerns and how committed they are to clearing the problem.  In the salon I can treat grade 1, 2 and 3 acne (provided that the client is not taking any prescribed medication which means treatment might be contra-indicated).  By checking the current skin regimen and condition of the skin at consultation a treatment plan can be created and recommendations made for products to use at home.  Education and knowledge of understanding personal triggers and how the skin functions can be helped will result in a much healthier complexion.

A lot of the clients who visit Randle and Randle for their skin care want healthy, glowing skin because it’s one of the first things people notice when they meet somebody – we provide advice, products and treatment to meet these demands using the dermalogica product range.  It is a two way process; we give you the tools and you create your own skin success.  Come in to discuss your needs, the consultation service is free and you can test the products before you decide to invest in them; a win/win situation for the consumer!

 

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After

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WAXING – HOW, WHEN AND WHY?

Hair removal can be traced back to Egyptian times.  The women would use tweezers made from sea shells to pull out their hair (including the hair on their head), or rub it off with pumice stones.  A major development was the concoction of oil and honey to make a sticky paste which was smeared on areas with hair and then pulled off (similar to todays sugar paste).  The art (if it could be called that in ancient times) of hair removal was passed down generations with each timeline having its own fashion!

Ancient Greeks and Romans – During the Roman Empire, having a lack of body hair was considered a sign of the classes. Wealthy women and men used razors made from flints, tweezers, creams, and stones to remove excess hair.  Pubic hair was considered uncivilized which is why many famous statues and paintings of Grecian women are depicted hairless.

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MIDDLE AGES

Cleopatra was a trendsetter in her time and so too was Queen Elizabeth 1 during the Middle Ages. She set the precedence for hair removal amongst women, who followed her lead by removing it from their faces, but not their bodies. The fashion of this era was to remove eyebrows and hair from the forehead (to make it appear larger), which women did by using walnut oil, or bandages soaked in ammonia (which they got from their feline pets – yummy!) and vinegar.

1700S

The late 18th century ushered in a more civilized approach to hair removal.  Jean Jacques Perret, a French barber, created the first straight razor for men in 1760 which was used by some women.

1800S

By 1844, Dr. Gouraud had created one of the first depilatory creams called Poudre Subtile. Soon after, in 1880, King Camp Gillette created the first modern day razor for men and a revolution was born. However, it would be another three decades before a razor specifically marketed for women would appear.

EARLY 1900S

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In 1915, Gillette created the first razor specifically for women, the Milady Decolletée. The early 1900’s also saw ads for depilatory cream hit the masses. In 1907 an ad for X-Bazin Depilatory Powder began circulating, promising to remove ‘humiliating growth of hair on the face, neck, and arms’. A decade later, a leading women’s fashion magazine ran an ad featuring a woman with her arms raised and her armpits bare, the first of it’s kind.

1940S

Remington released the first electric women’s razor in 1940 after the success of a male version. Due to a wartime shortage of nylon, more products and techniques for hair removal hit the market as women were forced to go bare legged more often.

1950S

During the 1950s, hair removal became more widely accepted. Since many depilatory creams were still irritating to the skin, women relied on razors to shave their legs and underarms and tweezers to groom and shape their eyebrows.

1960S

Wax strips made their début in the 1960s and quickly became the method of choice for removing unwanted hair from under the arms and on legs. The first laser hair removal method hit the market in the mid-sixties, but was quickly abandoned due to its skin damaging tendencies.

1970S

Although electrolysis had been around for nearly a century, it became more reliable and safe in the 1970s with the development of transistorised equipment. The decade also saw a resurgence in the removal of bikini area hair as the swimsuit fad of the 1960s stuck around.

1980S-PRESENT

Today, most women rely on some form of hair removal in their everyday beauty routines, whether it is tweezing, threading, shaving, waxing, or depilatory creams. Waxing bars, eyebrow threading studios, and electrolysis centres are at an all time high and continue to rise. New technologies in hair removal have made it one of the most popular beauty services out there.

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Why get waxed?

Waxing procedures have really developed over the last few years and there are many products out there to make the process less painful.  If you’ve never experienced waxing then please choose your professional therapist and salon wisely; home waxing isn’t advisable as the products sold on the high street aren’t really up to the job and can cause skin damage.  The following will let you know what to look for if you decide you want to get a wax done:

  1. Check your therapist holds a current beauty qualification – at least level 2
  2. Ensure the salon has insurance; a certificate should be displayed.
  3. Your therapist should get you to complete a consultation and recommend patch testing 24 hours before the procedure if you have sensitive skin or are prone to allergies.
  4. Your therapist should wear gloves and an apron (optional) to perform your treatment and you should be provided with a clean towel to cover yourself.
  5. The wax should be tested on the therapist first and then on the client to ensure it’s not too hot. Check that the wax pot is clean and that spatula’s are changed. If blood specking occurs the spatula should never be re-dipped in to the wax.
  6. The area of skin to be waxed should be sanitised/cleansed with a suitable product and checked for any contra-indications such as skin tags, new bruising or open cuts.
  7. The area of skin should be stretched during removal (you should be encouraged to help), especially on the under arm and bikini as this minimises discomfort and prevents bruising.
  8. Any stray remaining hairs should be tweezed out (unless Lycon wax is used) as rewaxing an area can cause skin damage and irritation.
  9. An after wax product should be applied and any sticky areas cleaned.
  10. Aftercare for the next 24/48 hours should be given along with any recommendations for care between visits.

Why are there different types of wax?

Wax has been developed over the years to make the process more time efficient, more effective, more hygienic and kinder to the skin.  Salon businesses should keep up to date with the new products to ensure they offer their clients the best type of wax for their skin and the condition of the hair.  At Randle and Randle we use 4 different types of wax:

Cool/warm wax; this is the most common of waxes and is most suitable for the legs and arms as it covers a large area quickly and removes the hair effectively with strips. It is generally made of resins, rubbers and latex with a soothing additive such as azulene. Wax is applied thinly to the hair (the wax will also stick to the skin) and removed with either a muslin or paper strip. There shouldn’t be any major trauma to the skin except some redness and pimpling,  although poor waxing techniques such as repeatedly going over an area will cause bruising, redness and irritation (stop your therapist and tell her she’s causing damage to you!!)

Hot film wax: this is great to use on bikini lines, for Brazilians/Hollywoods, underarms and facial hair.  The addition of plasticides to the product means that it remains flexible rather than brittle and is removed as a pliable plastic sheet. The wax contracts around the hair and doesn’t stick to the skin like cool wax making removal less painful as the heat from the wax relaxes the follicle.  No strips are used, instead the wax is moulded into the area then lifted off along with the hair. Because the wax causes heat in the tissues one application only to an area is recommended, but there should be no trauma to the skin.

Lycon hot wax: this manufacturer has produced a waxing system and set of protocols with the clients comfort uppermost.  Using only the finest resins, natural ingredients and aromatherapy oils, Lycon delivers superior performance, removing stubborn hair as short as 1mm.  Lycon Hot Waxes can be re-applied on the same area many times without the wax feeling too hot and without skin trauma or irritation to ensure every hair is removed, this is because an oil is applied to the skin first and acts as barrier to excessive heat.  The result is silky soft, hair free skin every time.

Lycon strip wax: this behaves exactly the same is cool wax but the advanced ingredient technology means the wax is suitable for even the most sensitive of skins. The wax is applied super thinly, it can remove short hair, it does not  leave a sticky residue and is virtually pain free.

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http://www.stripdistribution.com/all-about-wax.aspx

What are the possible reactions to waxing?

Bruising: down to poor technique and not stretching the skin sufficiently during removal

Blood spots: common on under arm and bikini areas and to those who have not waxed before. This is due to the hair being pulled from a follicle when it is still attached to the blood supply in its growing stage.  Over time this will stop happening.

Redness and goosebumps: this is the skins natural defence aiming to stop any bacteria entering the follicle.

Burning: if the wax feels too hot on application then a burn is highly likely and should be treated by using cool running water for up to 10 minutes.

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Conclusions

Clients will often tell us they don’t want to wax regularly, keeping it to summer holidays only, because it doesn’t work.  They say that the hair is “back within a week”.  This is because each hair is at a different stage of growth due to the other, more regular methods of removal used such as shaving. Shaving will only slice the hair at the surface leaving the rest of it intact in the follicle to continue growing (hence shaving every couple of days).  Waxing aims to catch all the hairs in either it’s growing or changing phase to ensure at least 3-4 weeks hair free by removing it completely out of the follicle.

Another reason (or excuse?) that some people don’t wax is because they have to go through a period of ‘growth’ before removal can be successful.  To these clients I would always suggest that they start the waxing appointments in late autumn and winter when they are covering up more and regrowth isn’t as noticeable.  By the time the summer comes they have established an effective waxing pattern and the hair will be much sparser and softer, and their holiday wax will last the whole 2 weeks.

At Randle and Randle we understand that not all of clients want to be waxed, but rest assured if you take the plunge you will receive an outstanding service and will leave the salon silky smooth.

CLEANSING V SKIN WIPES

Last week we held a skin event at Randle and Randle; as part of Face Map the Nation we were aiming to contribute to dermalogica’s target of analysing 20,000 skins throughout September and recommending suitable products to deal with concens and problems.

We welcomed lots of new clients interested in finding out about their skin and what the product range could do for them.  What I found very interesting was the amount of clients who used facial/cleansing wipes on a regular basis, stating that they didn’t have time for a ‘proper’ cleansing regimen.  In general most of them described their skin as feeling tight, not fully clean and that occasionally they would get flaking, especially when the climate/temperature began to drop.  Saying you use face wipes instills horror and disbelief right to the very core of every skin specialist, but as with everything, there are pro’s & con’s!!  Make up your own minds from the facts whether they suit you, your lifestyle and your skin.

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Facial/cleansing wipes

Convenience:  We all like a quick and effective method of cleaning our faces (especially after one too many vodkas on a night out).  As a one off, you can get away with it but wipes only remove the surface dirt and make-up on your skin.  In reality you’re actually smearing some of the existing impurities over the rest of your face and leaving them on the skin.

Cost: Most wipes are fairly cheap ranging from 99p upwards.  If you use 2 per day and you get a pack of 50 then each cleanse costs you less than 1p.  Great news!! But they’re cheap for a reason – low cost ingredients!  (see below)

Ingredients: To keep the wipes ‘wet’ certain ingredients are included which aren’t  beneficial to the skin (check the listings on the back of packets for the following culprits, although not all manufacturers use all of them)

Phenoxy ethanol – an alcohol which is a common irritant and used to preserve the wipes to prevent them from growing bacteria giving them a long shelf life.  Alcohol is drying to skin as it strips away its’ natural oils.

Propylene glycol – a colourless, syrupy liquid at room temperature (found in e-cigarettes) is used as a stabiliser to keep wipes moist; it is an irritant.  Industrial grade propylene glycol is used in anti-freeze (would you pour that onto a cloth and wipe your face with it?)

Methylisothiazolinone – used as a microbial agent to inhibit bacterial growth.  It is common in wipes for babies and intimate areas. It can cause redness, blisters, rashes and swelling.

Sodium lauryl sulphate: a cheap surfactant (foaming agent) used to emulsify oils and lift them off the skin.  It is a well known skin irritant which should be thoroughly rinsed off the skin with water; in the case of using wipes this ingredient will stay on the skins’ surface causing tightness, redness and irritation.

How do you feel about using wipes now?  If you want to help your skin, prevent ageing and irritation then read on.

Professional cleansing products.

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My training as a therapist – in particular the anatomy of the skin , has meant that undergoing further training with dermalogica has reinforced my belief in looking after your skin with the correct products and application methods. I believe in the products and the company ethos.  Glynn and I use the products daily and we constantly see amazing results when clients begin to invest in and use the products themselves.

Cleanser: Should be prescribed for your skin type by someone who can explain why you should use it and point out the characteristics to support the choice.  There are certain consistencies of cleanser and certain ingredients which will benefit a certain skin type or condition e.g. a creamy formulation will have an instantly softening effect on the skin but will still clean dirt and impurities without stripping off the natural oils.  If the product is also water soluble (which all dermalogica cleansers are) then there is no danger of product being left on the skin to cause any reaction.

Ingredients: Steer clear of cleansers containing ‘parfum’ (synthetic fragrance), lanolin (cheap emollient which is a known irritant), mineral oil (sits on the skins surface causing blockages), alcohol (dries out the natural oils).

Cost: You will get what you pay for! A cheap cleanser at £3 will get rid of dirt but won’t help you get healthy, glowing skin.  A 250ml dermalogica cleanser currently retails at £27.70.  We recommend a double cleanse morning and evening – you will use approximately 5ml of product in a day = 55p per day: so your product will last around 50 days (just short of 2 months).  Within a day you will notice your skin feels differently, within a week other people will notice your skin looks clearer – RESULT!

Convenience: This is a sticking point for some clients! We all need quick cleansing – what dermalogica offers is quick and effective cleansing.  All the products love water so it’s ideal to use them in the shower or at the sink.  It should take between 2-4 minutes to clean your skin. OK so this is slightly longer than skimming over with a wipe, but you will reap the rewards!

Conclusions

Hopefully you’ve found this blog helpful and it has allowed you to consider your skin care needs, and why sometimes your skin won’t look its best.  Without cleaning your skin there is no point buying an expensive moisturiser because it has nowehere to go – it will sit on top of the skins dirt, natural oil and make-up. There are thousands of products out there and to try and get the right one for your skin, without advice is incredibly difficult.  If you have a cupboard full of products that you’ve bought in the past and not used because they don’t work, (or have made your skin condition worse),then you’ve wasted time and money to experiment. Come and see us in the salon for a Facemap skin analysis, try products before you buy and ask as many questions as possible so you understand why your skin is behaving like it is.  Let us take the guesswork out of skin care – invest in the one skin you have and make it the healthiest it can be.

WHAT MAKES A GOOD BLOW DRY?

Ok….so another very early interview with my lovely Mr Glynn started at 3.30am over tea and toast (momentary midweek madness!).  I asked the question: what makes a good blow dry? Read on……..

The key issues that a stylist needs to consider is how the client can achieve and maintain the look on a daily basis so they keep the style looking smart between salon visits.

Lifestyle:  What does the client do every day?  If they’re a busy working mum who has the school run to do, walk the dog and get herself to work by 9am, then an intricate half hour blow dry is out of the question! That’s not to say that the style has to be boring or bland (or ageing)!

Time: How long does the client want to spend in front of the mirror styling, or washing, conditioning, towel drying?  For most people in the morning (including men), a quick and easy routine with effective results is preferable – 15 minutes max to style is a good measure., however a blow dry should never be rushed.

Product: There’s no point resisting product use unless you’re happy with the way your hair behaves naturally.  To create lift, shine, soft & shiny curls or sculpting short fringes means some sort of product needs to be included into your regimen.  Take the professional advise of your stylist and watch carefully how much and what technique they use to apply it your hair.

Tools:  I had never seen such an array of brushes for hair styling until I met Glynn! Round ones fat ones  thin ones , natural bristle ones , plastic ones,  flat ones, back combers: you name it he has it – and each one gives a different finish (think your hairdresser charges too much? Think again, one brush can cost more than you pay for a cut and colour)! Anyway, suffice to say there’s a brush for every style and occasion and it makes your styling life easier.

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How to dry your hair

Step 1

Towel dry by gently squeezing out excess moisture, don’t rub vigorously as the friction can cause split ends, frizz, dryness and hair breakage.

Step 2

Use a wide tooth comb to separate the hair as it doesn’t overstretch the hair and gently releases any knots.

Step 3

Apply your recommended product, making sure you get an even distribution by applying from root to tip.

Step 4

Section hair with clips (about 4-6) and start at the back section (you’ll get bored drying this as you can’t see it and  will be tempted to rush it).  Hold your dryer about 6 inches away from your scalp and start to dry – if you smell burning stop and check what’s happening!! Blow dry from root to tip on a mediium settting and when you’re sure the section is dry set the section with a blast of cold air.

Step 5

Apply any finishing product, use straighteners, tongs or rollers as advised or to suit your creative mood.

What to look out for when your stylist is blow drying

 

 

IMAGINE HOW BIG THE SALON WOULD HAVE TO BE IF WE STILL DID THIS!!

IMAGINE HOW BIG THE SALON WOULD HAVE TO BE IF WE STILL DID THIS!!

In recent years the art of blow drying hasn’t been taught comprehensively since there are now a multitude of finishing tools to achieve curls or straight locks.  A well trained professional  stylist will touch each section of hair with their fingers between brush strokes, rather than resting it on their hair dryer so they can feel the natural texture (they usually want the cuticle to lay smooth and flat), temperature and when the hair is dry.  By resting the hair on the dryer more heat is created in the section so there is then a certain amount of guesswork as to whether the hair is sufficiently dry to do the final cold blast.  The resulting finish isn’t as glossy or smooth and the style won’t hold for as long.  Also be wary if your stylists ‘blast’ dries your hair before starting to style it – this is quite a lazy technique and again can give poorer results or reliance on other devices to finish the style such as straighteners.

Conclusions

I hate blow drying my hair, their’s a lot of it and it’s naturally curly.  I get hot, bothered and bored by the process, and since my job means I have to wear it off my face I very rarely do it.  If I have time and feel particularly patient I can do a decent job, but my hair is cut to allow it to dry naturally and hold it’s shape making my life easier.  So next time you visit your stylist discuss with them how you intend to manage your style so they can tailor it accordingly and advise you how to get the best from your hair every day – failing that, marry your hairdresser!!!

Amanda and Glynn

NAILS – TO HAVE OR HAVE NOT; A CUSTOMER FRIENDLY GUIDE

When I started my beauty training the first unit we studied was manicure and pedicure.  Like everyone else in the class I thought it would just involve a bit of filing and then polishing.  I was surprised by the information that can be discovered by the condition of the nail plate and surrounding skin.  You can tell if someone has taken recent medication or has been ill, if they have a long term health condition, has previously worn extensions or has been a nail biter.  By having an understanding of the natural nail and its anatomy a competent nail tech shouldn’t cause damage to the underlying structures, and will be able to recognise diseases or disorders that may affect the treatment.  The pink part of your nail is attached to a blood supply so it can be nourished and allowed to grow; once it passes the end of your finger it is a dead structure called the free edge and can be filed to adjust the shape and length.

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All factors are taken into consideration before performing a nail service, not just the obvious of the clients colour choice.  This is why there are so many nail systems around, each claiming to be better than the next for various usage and conditions.  A well educated nail technician will be able to advise and offer sound knowledge on the best way to meet the clients needs without causing damage to the natural nail.  They will also have a favourite system they like to work with but will offer sound impartial advice as to the suitability for the individual.  At Randle and Randle we, (sorry, I) made the decision not to offer the acrylic nail system based on the facts that the smell is far too powerful in a confined space and would impact on the comfort of all our clients, and that there are many other places offering the service but causing nail damage through poor training.

Jess is our specialist for nails at Randle and Randle and she has worked hard to perfect her nail skills.  She offers gel and silk to create extensions and sculptures, as well as using the products to ‘wrap’ the natural nail in an overlay.  Gel polish is a salon staple and very popular, as once the gel is cured there is no chance of smudging the finish if you need to use your digits again to get money or keys out of your bag, it is instantly dry and the shiny finish will last the whole 3 weeks!

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As a new nail technician in our business Jess is building a good reputation with her clients based on her attention to detail and understanding of her product systems, meaning she delivers excellent results everytime.  One of the things which she finds slightly irritating (words altered so as not to cause offence!) is when she treats a new nail clent who has had poor workmanship somewhere else.  For one thing a lot of clients aren’t aware of what nail system has been used, so Jess will need to do a soak off before she can continue with her treatment as using different systems doesn’t provide good results.  Then there is the ‘reveal’ of any damage – ranging from deep blending grooves to nail infections.  In a way the preparation of a nail plate can be likened to the preparation of woodwork in an old house.  There is no way of telling what the surface will look like or how it can be treated until the old layers of gloss and varnish are removed.  So if you ring for an appointment we usually ask if you’ve been to us before and if you’ve got any nail system on at the moment.  This means we can allocate sufficient time for treatment and you will know that you ‘ll be getting a complete service.  Believe me that the more questions your nail tech asks before treatment starts then you can be assured they are competent and understand their subject.

So……. to have nails or not? The choice is personal, but always hold uppermost that the natural nail (apart from the free edge that can be filed) is living and is attached to a blood supply.  It’s structure can easily be damaged and should be handled with care and respect.

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Visit Jess at Randle and Randle and let her share her knowledge and expertise to give your nails a luxurious treatment.

KRISTINA @ RANDLEANDRANDLE

Kristina joined the team at Randle and Randle in June and brought 2 new treatments into the salon service menu; reflexology and Lycon waxing. This post is concerned with her passion for reflexology and the benefits it can bring to everyone who experiences it.

Reflexology, or zone therapy, is an alternative/complementary medicine involving the physical act of applying pressure to the feet, hands, or ears with specific thumb, finger, and hand techniques. It is based on a system of zones and reflex areas that reflect an image of the body on the feet and hands, with the premise that by working specific areas on the foot it affects a physical change to the body. As humans we all have an energy which flows through us, this ends in the feet.  If our body’s energies become blocked, then a disorder or disease may start to show, e.g. IBS, verruca’s.  By massaging the feet to release the blocked energy it allows the body to start it’s own healing process without the need for medication/chemicals.  This isn’t to say it’s a cure all – reflexologists work alongside medical practise aiming to help, not interfere with the process of gaining good health.

Each organ is represented in miniature on the foot, your spine line runs from the inside heel to underneath the big toe

Each organ is represented in miniature on the foot, your spine line runs from the inside heel to underneath the big toe

Kristina qualified in reflexology in 2005 and has continued to study it’s effects each time she treats clients, keeping case studies and records to back up the results.  She enjoys the holistic therapy and creates an experience for the client by ensuring the treatment environment is calm, clean and uncluttered, allowing them to relax into the treatment. The body can then “receive” the therapy; if the body feels under threat in anyway, adrenaline is produced making us want to fight or run from a situation.  Adrenaline keeps us on red alert and isn’t part of the healing process.

So what can you expect from a treatment with Kristina?

After the initial consultation Kristina will know how to proceed with treatment and how intense to make it; she will verbally assess at the beginning of each subsequent  treatment. You will be fully clothed (apart from the feet) and lying semi reclined, before you recieve a luxury foot cleanse with hot mitts to aid relaxtion before the treatment begins.

The feet are firstly warmed up with a thorough foot massage using effleurage (long, soothing strokes) and kneading movements. The clients tolerance of pressure is then checked and the treament begins, working on every zone on the foot. In certain areas where you may have a blockage you may experience discomfort; some describe it as a sharp pain almost like treading on a pin, whilst others just feel a change in pressure; this is relieved with thumb walk, snake like motions.  Kristina will try to find out reasons for this by asking questions and digging for more information.  Some clients may fall asleep during treatment (I always do!), others can experience emotional outbursts or start to feel generally out of sorts. At the end of the treatment the findings are discussed before guidance and after care is given. Reactions to treatment vary according to the condition being treated and the level of energy blockage being experienced.  All reactions are positive and show that your body has accepted the treatment. You may feel on top of the world and completely energised immediately or this may ‘kick’ in over the next few hours.  Some describe the feeling as finally “feeling back to their old self and at one with the world”. You may suffer a “healing crisis”, (which feels like mild flu), especially if you have been under long term stress or have a large build of toxins (alcohol, medication and smoking all contribute).  It should only last a couple of days and then you will start to feel more energised.  One treatment is sufficient to kick start your healing but a course is always more successful.

Book in for a Reflexology experience and let Kristina work her magic to get your head and body working together again in harmony!

Please comment on any of the blog posts and ask any questions -next weeks topic is nails and what to look out for from a nail technician at work!

Amanda

HAIR AND SUCCESSFUL COLOURING

One of the main hair services at Randle and Randle is colouring. Glynn, Rob and Danielle love to get creative and use colour to change the feel of a haircut, keep up with the current colour trends as well as using it for coverage of the dreaded grey hair.

From their experience they are able to select and mix appropriate colour for the hair type and condition, then apply and develop it correctly without causing damage.  Since I’m not a hairdresser but have watched with interest the  colour work,  I decided to interview Glynn over our 6am morning coffee (bit intense for a Saturday morning but he went with it!) to find out what makes a colouring treatment successful.

At consultation your hair will be assessed for suitability; the team are looking for clues that might cause the condition of your hair to change for the worse during the colouring process.  Healthy hair feels smooth to touch, is uniform in texture it will shine and separate easily.  Unhealthy/damaged hair looks dull, there is hair breakage with uneven lengths and texture, the hair cuticle is open so it feels rough to touch and it will “mat” together easily.

One of the key factors they consider is porosity.  Glynn describes this “as the allowance of moisture capable of being absorbed and retained in the hair”.  Good porosity allows the hair to be flexible an

d strong, keeping in moisture and protein.  If a colour is attempted with poor or uneven porosity then the results won’t meet the clients expectations, it will look very patchy and irregular.  To ensure excellent results and client satisfaction, if the team feel the hair can’t accept the colour due to poor porosity all is not lost!  By using clear gloss treatments and suitable products, over a few weeks the hair can be prepared and conditioned to even out the porosity, after which a colour can be applied.

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The hair cuticle

 

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Chemical damaged hair

The use of correct shampoos and conditioners is often seen as a major extravagance and as we’re constantly bombarded with media advertisements (the celebs don’t use them by the way) for super smooth hair we invariably are brainwashed into buying them.  This is where professional knowledge on ingredients comes into it’s own.  A lot of the high street brands include a silicone formula to smooth the hair – it works instantly, however it coats the hair and causes a build up of product which stops moisture penetrating, eventually making the hair dry and frizzy.

Silicones: These are found in most hair products; they are very good detangling agents and coat the hair strand giving it a smooth feel and appearance. However, most silicones are water-insoluble and can only be removed by cleaning agents like Cocamidopropyl betaine, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, etc. If you don’t use shampoos containing these agents regularly and you use silcone containing products, this can lead to product buildup. Most silicones have the suffix -cone. Examples include dimethicone,cyclomethicone, amodimethicone, etc. Examples of water-soluble silicones are Dimethicone CopolyolLauryl Methicone Copolyol

Another culprit is sodium lauryl sulphate which is a soaping agent giving rich lather to a product.  The ingredient coats the scalp in an invisible milky film which causes the hair at the scalp to become greasy more quickly, therefore this increases the number of times the hair needs to be washed and you’re trapped in a vicious circle!  A small quantity of sodium lauryl sulphate is acceptable, a large amount will prevent great hair health.

Conclusions?

I learned a lot in the time in took to drink the contents of the cafetiere.  I have experienced first hand the result of product build up through using shampoo’s and conditioners with silicone in them.  Those of you who know me, also know the story of how Glynn came to be my husband after getting me some products to sort out the frizz that was!!  Those that don’t, please ask next time you visit the salon, there will be no charge for the added comedic value to your experience!!!!!

SKIN BAR @ RANDLE & RANDLE

Randle & Randle is a dermalogica skin centre.  We are stockists of retail products and provide prescriptive skin treatments to meet the clients skin concerns.  The concept of the skin bar is one that we’re using to good effect to promote the brand but also to offer advice and tips on looking after your skin at home.

So what is skin bar?

It’s a no pressure zone where clients can receive their free Face Mapping  service to understand their skin condition, and then perform their own mini-treatment under the guidance of a professional.  They can try the products, ask questions and enjoy a fun but informative session before deciding whether thet want to invest in the product range.  The one on one interaction and the hands on experience makes the decision process easy – ultimately the clients fall in love with the products because of the amazing, instant results.

If you usually buy your skin care products off the shelf and after 2 or 3 uses find they’re just not working, then skin bar is for you.  Come and try for your selves, see and feel the difference a professional skin care range can make when prescribed by a skin specialist.  We’re here to encourage good skin health and advice is always free!

14TH JUNE – 4 MONTHS OF TRADING

It’s been a while since I last wrote about our venture; or should that be adventure.

Working life has gone from the sublime to the ridiculous in terms of the hours we’re both putting in with our clients, and the concentrated efforts of making our business work.  We’re certainly not stagnant in our approach and we keep reflecting on the salons appearance, as well as the quality of service we’re offering, making changes and upgrading on a daily basis.

Clients often ask us how it’s shaping up working together and if we’ve had enough of each other yet?  Obviously I’m answering personally but I have asked for Glynn’s opinion to support my own; that we’re loving it!  Don’t get me wrong, there have been a few incidents when we haven’t seen eye to eye – and I have been guilty of being a bit too bossy which is to my detriment.  Fortunately we’ve resolved things easily over a glass of wine or two and come out of it even stronger and more determined to enjoy every minute of our relationship, at work and at home.  We’re lucky that we have business meetings informally and regularly (coffee in bed at 6.30am usually works) which we don’t have to schedule in and arrange to meet up.  It means we can deal with any issues quickly before they get out of hand.

 

So what’s been going on at chez Randle?

We’ve had two successful skin events held in the evening aiming to promote dermalogica and skin health.  Each involved clients being able to try products, have their skin face mapped and enjoy personalised skin consultations over a glass of fizz.  Incidently clients are enjoying tipple Thursday and fizz Friday on a weekly basis.  It’s surprising how many clients when asked if they would like a drink say no  –  but quickly say “oooh go on then” when we mention fizz is an option.  The salon enjoys a very relaxed, fun atmosphere as a result.

Our staff numbers have increased to include a new hair stylist, a Saturday girl and a new beauty therapist who specialises in Lycon waxing and reflexology; taking our team total to 8.

We have been steadily growing our client base and with the onset of the better weather are finding that ‘walk in’ trade is on the up.  Local businesses are recommending our services as we settle into the neighbourhood and using their services regularly:  to name a few, Patoo Thai (excellent Thai food), Manns fishmongers (amazing array of seafood), Sharrowvale Launderette (Roger is incredibly obliging), Pollards (they supply us with coffee, tea and entranklements), Sharrowvale hardware (they always have exactly what we need), Sebastians and the Patisseries (for yummy lunches), and the new wine merchants on Sharrowvale (keeping us well oiled and sane).  All in all, the last 4 months have flown by and have kept us on our toes.  The next 4 should see us introducing some special events and continuing to grow our business.

Watch this space – hopefully the next post won’t be so long in coming!

Amanda